Itineraries
Agadir & the Souss Valley Food Trail — 3 Days
Most people fly into Agadir for the beach and never taste the region behind it. That is a shame, because the Souss is the home of argan oil, of amlou — the almond, argan and honey spread that locals call Berber Nutella — and of a distinct Amazigh (Berber) kitchen shaped by the semi-arid land. Three days is enough to eat the coast and the country both.
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- 20 July 2026
At a glance
- Agadir is a working fishing port first and a resort second — eat at the port.
- The real prize inland is argan oil and amlou, best bought at a women's co-operative.
- Souss tagines lean on saffron, argan and preserved lemon rather than heavy spice.
Day 1 — Agadir's port and grills
Agadir was rebuilt after the 1960 earthquake, so it lacks an old medina, but its port is one of the busiest sardine harbours in the world. Head to the port-side grill stalls at lunch, choose your fish from the ice, and have it grilled simply with cumin, salt and a wedge of lemon. Sardines, sea bream and calamari are the honest choices.
In the evening, explore the Talborjt district and the Souk El Had, one of the largest markets in the country, for spices, dried fruit and street snacks. Agadir's dining is more relaxed and beach-facing than the imperial cities; lean into fresh, grilled and simple rather than hunting for elaborate tagines here.
Day 2 — Into argan country
Drive inland toward Taroudant or the Ait Baha road and you enter the argan forest, a UNESCO biosphere found almost nowhere else on earth. Stop at a women's co-operative to see the nuts cracked by hand and the oil pressed — buy culinary argan oil (darker, nuttier, toasted) and a jar of amlou to take home.
For lunch, seek out an Amazigh tagine — often chicken with preserved lemon and saffron, or a vegetable tagine finished with a thread of argan oil. The cooking here is gentler on spice than Marrakech and lets the oil's flavour show. A drizzle of argan over warm bread with amlou is the region's perfect breakfast, so plan one before you leave.
Day 3 — Taroudant and the return
Give your last day to Taroudant, the walled 'little Marrakech' of the Souss, with its unhurried souks and ochre ramparts. It is a calmer place to shop for spices, dates and oil than the big cities, and its cook-shops serve honest plates of the day to a mostly local crowd.
On the way back to Agadir, stop for one final seafood lunch or a roadside stand of prickly pears in season. The Souss trail is short but it changes how you read Moroccan menus — once you have tasted real argan oil and amlou, the mass-market versions never fool you again.
Frequently asked questions
Is Agadir worth visiting for food?
For elaborate traditional cooking, no — Agadir is modern and resort-oriented and lacks an old medina. For fresh Atlantic seafood and as a gateway to the argan-rich Souss, absolutely. Treat the city as a base for simple grilled fish and market browsing, then head inland for the region's real culinary identity.
What is amlou and should I buy some?
Amlou is a thick, sweet spread of roasted almonds, argan oil and honey, often called Berber Nutella, and it is one of the great souvenirs of the Souss. Buy it from a women's co-operative where you can see how it is made, as quality varies enormously and cheap versions cut it with vegetable oil. It travels home well in a sealed jar and is delicious on bread or msemen.
How do I tell culinary argan oil from cosmetic argan oil?
Culinary oil is pressed from roasted kernels, so it is darker, richer and distinctly nutty in aroma, while cosmetic oil is pressed raw and smells faint and grassy. Reputable co-operatives label the two clearly and will let you smell before buying. If a seller offers one bottle 'for everything', be sceptical — the good culinary oil is a specific product.
Can I do the Souss trail without a car?
It is possible by grand taxi and local bus between Agadir and Taroudant, but the argan co-operatives are scattered along rural roads and are far easier to reach with a car or a hired driver. If you are relying on public transport, base yourself in Taroudant and arrange a half-day co-operative visit locally. A driver for one day gives you the whole trail comfortably.