How-to guide
How to Eat Your Way Through Essaouira
Essaouira is a laid-back, wind-swept port on the Atlantic, and its food is all about the sea and the surrounding argan-growing land. Grilled fish straight off the blue fishing boats, fresh shellfish, and argan-based specialities define eating here, all in a relaxed medina far gentler than Marrakech. This guide covers how to eat your way through Essaouira.
About 1 to 2 days of eating
Step by step
- 1
Grill fish at the port
The essential Essaouira experience is the port grill stalls: pick fresh fish or shellfish landed that morning, agree the price by weight, and have it grilled over charcoal on the spot. Sardines, sea bream and sole are cheap, plentiful and superb.
- 2
Explore the medina's seafood eateries
Beyond the port, the walkable medina has plenty of seafood restaurants and casual spots doing fried calamari, grilled fish, fish tagines and seafood pastilla. The relaxed pace makes lingering over lunch easy here.
- 3
Taste the argan specialities
Essaouira sits in Morocco's argan heartland. Try amlou — the almond, argan oil and honey spread often called 'Moroccan Nutella' — with bread at breakfast, and pick up culinary argan oil (distinct from cosmetic) from a reputable women's co-operative.
- 4
Snack and drink around the medina
Between meals, enjoy the medina's cafes, fresh juice stalls, and sweet stalls. The town's gentle, arty atmosphere makes it a pleasant place to graze and people-watch over mint tea or coffee.
- 5
Buy argan and spices to take home
Essaouira is a good place to buy genuine culinary argan oil, amlou, and spices — ideally from women's argan co-operatives, which are both a fair source and often let you see the oil being pressed by hand.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Not agreeing the fish price by weight before the port stalls cook it.
- Confusing cosmetic argan oil with the culinary kind, which is roasted and for eating.
- Eating only in the medina and missing the fresh port grills.
- Buying argan from tourist shops rather than a reputable co-operative.
Tips from the kitchen
- Go to the port grills late morning when the catch has just landed.
- Amlou spread on fresh bread is the classic Essaouira breakfast treat.
- Culinary argan oil is roasted and nutty; check you're buying the edible kind.
- Essaouira's medina is small and relaxed — a great place to eat slowly.
Questions
What food is Essaouira famous for?
Grilled fish and seafood straight off its Atlantic fishing boats, and argan specialities like amlou spread and culinary argan oil. The port grill stalls, where you buy and grill fresh fish on the spot, are the signature experience.
What is amlou?
Amlou is a rich Moroccan spread of ground roasted almonds, culinary argan oil and honey, sometimes called 'Moroccan Nutella'. It's an Essaouira-region speciality, delicious spread on bread at breakfast.
Where should I buy argan oil in Essaouira?
From a reputable women's argan co-operative, which offers a fair, genuine product and often lets you watch the oil being pressed. Make sure you buy culinary (roasted) argan oil if you want it for eating rather than cosmetics.
Learn it hands-on in Marrakech
Reading is one thing; doing it beside a local host is another. Book a Marrakech cooking class, or explore the medina on a guided food tour.