Main dish
Sardines Grillees
Sardines grillees — grilled sardines — are one of Morocco's simplest and most beloved seafood preparations, especially along the Atlantic coast where the fish is caught daily and needs almost nothing done to it beyond a quick marinade and a hot grill. Whole sardines are cleaned, sometimes butterflied and stuffed with chermoula, then grilled over charcoal until the skin blisters and chars.
The dish celebrates freshness above all: the fish should smell of the sea, not of anything else, and the char from the grill adds a smoky bitterness that balances the oily richness of the fish.
Grilled sardines are a port-town classic, sold at harbour-side stalls and simple seafood restaurants, usually piled several to a plate with bread and a wedge of lemon.
Varieties of Sardines Grillees
Plain grilled sardines
Region: Essaouira / Atlantic coast
Whole sardines seasoned simply with salt and grilled quickly over charcoal, letting the fish's natural flavour lead.
Chermoula-stuffed sardines
Region: Essaouira / Safi
Butterflied sardines sandwiched around a spoonful of chermoula (herbs, garlic, spices) before grilling, adding brightness and depth.
How to eat sardines grillees
Sardines are eaten whole with the fingers, the small bones typically soft enough to eat or easily removed, alongside bread and a squeeze of lemon. No elaborate cutlery is needed.
Where to try it in Marrakech
The port stalls of Essaouira, a half-day trip from Marrakech, are the definitive place to eat grilled sardines fresh off the boat; simpler seafood grills in Marrakech also serve them, though the coast is where the fish is freshest.
How sardines grillees is made
Whole sardines are gutted and scaled, sometimes butterflied for stuffing, brushed with oil and salt or filled with chermoula, and grilled directly over hot charcoal for just a few minutes per side until the skin blisters.
History and origin
Sardines have been a dietary staple of Morocco's Atlantic coast for centuries, with Essaouira and Safi historically among the busiest sardine ports in the world; grilling over charcoal is the simplest and oldest preparation, requiring no oven or elaborate technique.
Insider tips
- Freshness matters more than seasoning — the best sardines need very little added flavour.
- Essaouira's port-side grill stalls let you pick your fish before it's cooked.
- Eat them hot; sardines lose their appeal quickly once cooled.
- Pair with a simple tomato-onion salad and bread rather than a heavy side dish.
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Frequently asked questions
Where are the best grilled sardines in Morocco?
Essaouira's port stalls are widely considered the best, given the town's fishing history and daily fresh catch.
Do you eat the bones?
Small sardine bones soften considerably on the grill and are often eaten along with the fish, though they can be removed if preferred.
Is chermoula always used?
No — many grilled sardines are served plain with just salt, letting the fish's freshness speak for itself.