Food in Rabat

Rabat, Morocco's capital, offers a food scene that is quieter and more elegant than Marrakech but no less rewarding. As the seat of the royal court, the city has a tradition of refined palace cuisine -- elaborate dishes that were developed in the royal kitchens and filtered down to the grand bourgeois families of the Kasbah and medina. Rabati cooking shares much with Fes's fassi tradition (many court families moved between the two cities) but adds its own Atlantic influence, with superb seafood arriving daily from the mouth of the Bou Regreg river and the harbour at Sale.

The Kasbah des Oudaias, the historic fortress quarter overlooking the ocean, is one of the most beautiful settings for a meal in all of Morocco. Tiny cafes in whitewashed-and-blue alleyways serve mint tea and freshly baked msemen, while restaurants tucked behind bougainvillea-draped walls offer refined tagines and grilled fish with views of the Atlantic surf. Below the Kasbah, the Rue des Consuls in the medina is lined with food stalls, juice bars, spice shops and restaurants serving some of the best-value traditional cooking in any Moroccan city.

Modern Rabat, centred on Agdal and Hassan, has a growing contemporary dining scene. French-trained Moroccan chefs run intimate restaurants that pair seasonal local produce with French technique, and the patisseries rival those of Casablanca. The city's compact size makes it easy to eat your way through both historic and modern quarters in a single day.

Signature dishes of Rabat

These are the dishes that define Rabat's food identity -- the plates that locals are proud of and visitors should seek out.

Where to eat in Rabat

Every city has its food neighbourhoods -- the streets, quarters and markets where locals eat and where you should too.

The cooking identity of Rabat

Rabati cuisine sits between the court refinement of Fes and the oceanic abundance of Casablanca. Palace dishes like mqualli (chicken with preserved lemon) are prepared with exacting spice proportions and aged butter (smen) that give a depth absent from tourist-restaurant versions. Seafood is treated simply -- grilled, baked or made into tagines with fresh herbs -- and the city's French heritage shows in its excellent patisseries and its fondness for butter-rich preparations. Rabat cooks are known for their zaalouk and other cold salads, which are more nuanced and herb-laden than those found elsewhere.

Market guide

The medina souk along Rue des Consuls is compact and manageable, with vendors selling spices, olives, preserved lemons and dried fruits. The covered market (marche couvert) in the Ville Nouvelle has excellent produce, fish and meat sections. For the finest traditional pastries, visit the bakeries along Avenue Mohammed V. In Sale across the river, the medina market is less touristy and prices are lower for spices, honey and household goods.

Best time to visit for food

April to June and September to November -- mild Atlantic weather, perfect for eating outdoors at the Kasbah des Oudaias.

Food tips for Rabat

• Have tea and msemen at one of the tiny cafes inside the Kasbah des Oudaias -- the ocean view is unforgettable.
• Visit the covered market in the Ville Nouvelle for fish and produce at local prices.
• Take the boat across the Bou Regreg to Sale for cheaper, more local street food.
• Rabat's patisseries are excellent and less crowded than Casablanca's -- try the croissants aux amandes.
• Friday couscous in Rabat is a serious affair -- ask your hotel or riad for a local recommendation.