Food in Moulay Idriss Zerhoun

Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is one of Morocco's holiest towns, spread dramatically across two hills in the Zerhoun massif above the Roman ruins of Volubilis and not far from Meknes. It grew around the tomb of Moulay Idriss I, the founder of the first Moroccan Muslim dynasty and a revered figure, which makes the town a major place of pilgrimage. Its whitewashed houses cascade down the slopes around the green-roofed shrine, and it has an intimate, deeply traditional atmosphere. For all its spiritual weight, it is a small hill town, and its food is honest hill-country cooking, tied to the olive groves and gardens of the fertile Zerhoun.

Olives and olive oil are the pride of the surrounding hills, which are covered in ancient groves, and they anchor the local table -- with bread, in cooking, and celebrated as the region's signature product. The town is also known for its sweets, above all its nougat, sold from colourful stalls near the shrine and the main square, and for pastries like kaab el ghazal (the almond-filled gazelle-horn crescents) that the wider Meknes-Fes region does so well. The everyday cooking is classic north-central Moroccan -- refined tagines, couscous, harira -- made with the vegetables, fruit and herbs of the Zerhoun gardens.

For the traveller, Moulay Idriss is a short and rewarding trip from Meknes and pairs naturally with the great Roman site of Volubilis just below. Non-Muslims cannot enter the shrine itself, but the town's steep lanes, its viewpoints over the hills, its olive-and-nougat stalls and its guesthouses serving home cooking make it a memorable stop. Climb to a terrace for the view, eat a tagine made with local produce, and buy some Zerhoun olives and a slab of nougat, and you taste the food of this sacred hill town.

Signature dishes of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun

These are the dishes that define Moulay Idriss Zerhoun's food identity -- the plates that locals are proud of and visitors should seek out.

Where to eat in Moulay Idriss Zerhoun

Every city has its food neighbourhoods -- the streets, quarters and markets where locals eat and where you should too.

The cooking identity of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun

Moulay Idriss cooks honest hill-country food, rooted in the olive groves and gardens of the fertile Zerhoun. Olives and prized local olive oil anchor the table, with bread and in cooking, celebrated as the region's signature. The everyday repertoire is refined north-central Moroccan -- tagines of chicken and lamb with preserved lemon, saffron and ginger, couscous, harira -- made with the vegetables, fruit and herbs of the surrounding gardens. The town is also known for sweets, above all its nougat and the almond pastries of the Meknes-Fes region. It is warm, traditional cooking, tied to pilgrimage and hospitality, and to the produce of one of Morocco's greenest and most historic corners.

Market guide

The hills around Moulay Idriss are covered in ancient olive groves, so olives and olive oil are the standout things to buy, best around the late-autumn harvest and pressing. The weekly souk and the town stalls carry the region's produce -- olives, oil, vegetables, fruit and herbs from the Zerhoun gardens -- alongside spices and everyday goods. Near the shrine and the main square, colourful stalls sell the town's famous nougat and other sweets, a classic edible souvenir. The town pairs naturally with a visit to the Roman ruins of Volubilis just below and to Meknes nearby. As a small pilgrimage town, it runs largely on cash, so carry small notes.

Best time to visit for food

Spring and autumn for green hills, comfortable walking and, in late autumn, the olive harvest; the town is busiest during religious festivals and pilgrimage seasons.

Food tips for Moulay Idriss Zerhoun

• Buy Zerhoun olives and olive oil, the pride of the surrounding hills, best around the autumn harvest.
• Try the town's famous nougat from the colourful stalls near the shrine and square.
• Climb to a guesthouse terrace for a home-cooked tagine with panoramic views over the hills.
• Combine your visit with the great Roman ruins of Volubilis just below the town.
• Remember that non-Muslims cannot enter the shrine itself, but the town and its viewpoints are open to all.
• Carry cash in small notes; this small pilgrimage town has limited card acceptance.